Making it look better...Adding a fixed chain-tensioner

Since I am working more on the finishing the handcycle, I have decided to lift the "pride factor" a bit and attempt to get the finish closer to what I may conclude with.  Therefore, I have filled in the small voids, pinholes, wrinkles, and areas of carbon fiber for which the peel ply was not in proper contact. In other words, I am trying to make the product look better albeit, what ever I do will have no consequence on strength.

The first mistake I made was using a low-quality (hear "cheap") paint brush.  I spent more time removing bristles from the resin finish than I did brushing on the resin.  So, I picked up a more expensive brush (about 30 times the cost of the cheap one).  This was not a throw-away brush.  Therefore, per Jakob's suggestions on saving a brush from hardening epoxy, I built a "bush-saver".  It works beautifully.  An no fumes escape to speak of.

Here is the result of a single coat of West System's 105 resin with 205 Fast Hardener:

With the foot holders attached to the fork and the fork attached to the base:

My front hub -- the I-Motion 9-speed from SRAM -- has a single cog.  I may change that cog out and therefore, the chain length may change.  On a regular bike, the derailleur's tensioner takes care of the chain tension when one shifts and changes cogs.  In my case, my hub's internal gears take care of gearing with the exception that I may decide to change the single exterior cog.  I may use a 17 tooth cog when I ride around Westerville and flat areas.  I may go to 19 tooth cog when I will be completing big climbs (e.g. New York's Gran Fondo and central Ohio's Reysnolds Hill).  Therefore I added a fixed idler/tensioner to the fork: